The Secret to Happy Training

I have been psyched on training for climbing, and even though my beloved Rachel Orth, and my beloved Rachel Strate have both deserted me for greener pastures (sad, sad days for me), I have been getting amped with visiting, roadtripping Brit Steve Honeyman.

Having a fun, supportive, motivating person to train with makes all the difference, and I've been really amping to get into super shape and hopefully propel that onto some real rock in March (Bishop anyone?)...of course all of that hinges on all of our canine drama that we cannot seem to escape.

For me the secret to happy and productive training (well, really just climbing) is surrounding myself with good people with no egos, and people that realize climbing is fun! My other major secret, and perhaps I shouldn't divulge, lest the masses flood the gym, is going during the day with a few friends when the gym is empty....for me this is as much fun as it is productive.

I'm hoping to take a trip down South for some new bouldering areas- Duncan, if you are reading this, let's GO!

And this link probably won't work, but this pic is a hilarious oldie but a goody, me bouldering with a harness on and a huge ass chalk bag dangling behind me- good times!

GRRRL Power- Outdoor Inspiration- A Divine Line

My good friend Jaima has started a new website to help connect the female backcountry enthusiasts of the Wasatch. Her site is called A Divine Line and her aim is to have a forum, gear reviews, classifieds to buy and sell used gear, interviews, and great trail information for ski touring and climbing in Utah. Jaima is an amazing athlete, from snowboarding, to backcountry skiing, to climbing, she is pretty much a badass, and her website will no doubt be a fun, inspiring place to visit and a great way to connect with other women who enjoy the Wasatch backcountry. Stop by and join her forum today!

I'm Like David Hasslehoff

Not really, but this is a banner week for media. I must be big in Japan...or Germany, or somewhere!

Yesterday, my friend Chris pointed out that I am a centerfold in the new Urban Climber for an FFA I did in LCC about two years ago...oh well, better late than never, right? And, for those of you who have asked, Yes, it was scary. It's actually Ditch Witch low, or sit, or whatever it's called and was a fourth overall ascent, first female ascent. Back when I used to be strong, was motivated, and had balls. I remember the day well, I made Andy promise to stay on the ground and spot me with Justin, and he PROMISED he would and that he wouldn't take pics. When I topped out that boulder and looked over in the trees and saw Andy in a tree limb with his camera in hand, and only little ol' Justin on the ground, I was MAD. But, I was also so ecstatic, and I forgave Andy, as I was happy to have his amazing pics to remember it by.

Then today, again in design blog land, I have popped up again on Apartment Therapy, a republish of a shot that appeared about a year ago. This time, they have labled me as having an "Unstuffy Dining Room." Cool, I'll take it. I need to entertain soon in that Unstuffy Dining Room, because as of late I have been a total and complete shut in.

While we're on the topic of my status as a shut in, Honey is still struggling. I can't really write about it, because it's painful. She is still having problems on her leg that was re-operated on, and we go back in again on Thursday for another xray. At this point, I'm saying no more surgery...let's let this poor Honey heal and try again in a few months. And as if to tell me how over it she really is, she took a dump in my laundry room- a first, and hopefully a last.

That's the news for the day, and if you have any funny stories, I could use a laugh right about now.

Pic by Andy Burr

pic by yours truly

pic by yours truly

HERA Climb for Life '09

 

 

 

 

Here's just a few of the pics I shot at the HERA Climb for Life event this weekend in Salt Lake City.

This year I was one of the climbing pros that got to guide participants climbing to raise money and awareness for ovarian cancer. I have tried to do this event every year since 2005, when I met Sean Patrick the founder of HERA in Las Vegas at Red Rocks. Sean passed away this year, and she was sorely missed at this years event, but the spirit of HERA seemed even stronger as everyone was inspired to 'do it for Sean' this year. Nearly $100,000 was raised by participants from all over the country.

My group was very cool and everyone was so positive it was infectious. We had the father-son duo of Sean and John, Diana, Shelly, and Alison. Some of these climbers were very new to climbing, or had never bouldered outside. Everyone was determined, and every climber enjoyed tons of personal success.

I was proud that the company I work for, Black Diamond, as well as one of my climbing sponsors Five Ten, were involved in making this important, inspiring event happen.

I hope to see many of my faithful readers at next years event!

AscenDance

My good friends Skippy and Isa came to town to put on a helluva good show at the Outdooor Retailer street party last Tuesday.

AscenDance can be described as dance-climb fusion, and as a former dancer, gymnast, and current climber, I think it's pretty badass.

Isa and Skippy live in the Bay area, and they are incredible athletes and all around great people. Isa's choreography was beautiful and displayed so much strength and grace in each piece. They made it look effortless, and trust me- it's not. They taught me one move, and I was sore for a week!

Check out their website, AscenDance Project.

 

 

 

Please Help a Climber in Need

Any amount will help! We all have to stick together, that is what makes the climbing world so special.

This is Tacos, a climber from Japan, who was seriously injured in a car wreck here in the States. Tacos needs help getting back home with two caregivers. To read more about her, please visit over at my good friend Rachel's blog.

Get Shorty

Yup, that's me, Shorty. Photo by Adam.

Joe's Valley

 

 

 

 

It has been forever since I climbed outside due to injuries and/or weather, so this last Friday when Ashley and Rachel were psyched to get outside, I jumped at the chance. We had a fabulous girls day. Thanks ladies!

 

 

 

Five Ten Treasure Hunt

 

I'm not sure exactly how this works, but if you are on Twitter (that's YOU Cragbaby and Wasatch Girl!)then check it out!

Denial

Well, I haven't posted this tidbit of info, because I am in complete denial, but last Thursday I injured my self climbing, AGAIN! After missing all of the Spring and Summer (four long months!) due to a tendon injury on my left hand/forearm, I did nearly the identical thing to my right hand/forearm. It's a really bummer, because I've been climbing well for the last six weeks. In fact, I floated a long time project, only to botch the top out, and then on one of the next goes, I injured it on the opening moves. Normally I try to keep a good attitude about injuries, after all, they are a part of the game, this one really bums me out because I just came back!

Well, I'm seeing an ortho doc this time and getting PT. They put battery-powered steroid patches on me, and do ultrasound, heat and massage. Plus, I'm dosing loads of ibu, with heat and ice, and taking MSM/gluco. I'm determined for this to heal in a very expedited manner.

The doc thinks that the tendon didn't rupture at all, but rather the juncture in the forearm where the flexor tendon joins to the muscle belly. In fact, she thinks it's more muscle related that tendon. It's not like that is any better or worse, but it does get good blood flow. So, I may be able to climb sooner, but would have to take it EASY. That's quite a slippery slope for me! Well, I'll keep you all posted, and hope to be back in action quicly.

Maple Canyon

Yesterday, Adam and I went climbing at Maple Canyon with Jaima, Kev, and Amber. It was a super fun crew, and we hooked up with Heath and Rachel S. down there. It was my second time climbing outside in 5 months (last week we went to AF, and toproped with Kev). Well, I felt a lot better this time around, and flashed an 11d, a 12a, and a 12b! Woo hoo! I guess the time off was good for me after all. But, then I was so tired and pumped, I could hardly move, so I layed around with Tiggs, and it was his first time on a climbing day out also in about 5 months. It was great to have him there, even if he wanted to try to steal food from everyone...that Pred makes him so ravenous!

I was so happy to be with my friends, my furkid, and my hubby climbing outside, it was a great day.

Injured Reserve

I'm sad to say that I may have royally F**KED myself today in a pre-work bouldering session. Remember that post where I said climbing was all about fun?! Why didn't I listen to myself. Within 24 hours of writing that post, which I sincerely meant, I fell in love with a difficult project. After spending 2 days on it, I felt ready to send. Only problem, was that my work schedule sucked for the time, so I decided to get up early, rush through my warm up, and try to send before work.

One tenuous heel hook and tweaky undercling later, I feel as though I have probably partially tore my left ring finger tendon down into my forearm.

I can't tell how serious it is, but right now it hurts to close my hand and type this entry, so it can't be good. Bad timing, as I really wanted to finish the proj, and we are heading to Ft. Collins to climb this weekend. Hopefully the damage isn't as bad as I fear, and I can get back to action soon. As for now, I will be resting and trying to stay psyched!

Fun with the gals (and our special male guest star!)

Well, I wanted to post some really cute pics of Jaima and Rachel, but these are the only ones that Jaima emailed me, so you will have to link to Jaima's blog to see the rest. Here a couple really fun problems in LCC. The first one is a great "easy" slab, it always gives you a little flutter at the top because it feels kind of high and scary (it really isn't, it just feels like it when you are standing on a crystal the size of a pin head!).
This is a pic of a super fun, technical problem called Seams Easy. Jaima has a pic on her blog that shows her pressing it out, and that is the essence of the problem- pressing in a dihedral while you are basically horizontal, very yoga-like! Check it out. It has really meant a lot to me lately to have fun women to climb with around here. On this day, Rachel, Jaima, Cerre and I (with Kevin as our special male guest star) worked on this problem. It has been awesome to train in the gym with Rach, climb routes at Echo with Jaima, and also my friend Tarris, and then have a chance to get out with them for a couple of hours in LCC. I'm looking forward to climbing more this summer with all of these gals!

a personal post regarding climbing

lately i've been thinking alot about climbing. this really isn't a surprise to most, but it's not what you might think.

it's not uncommon for my (and others) motivations to wane when it comes to climbing. there is definitely frenzy lately surrounding women's bouldering, with several strong and capable women sending inspiring problems all across the globe.

recently i got an email from an old friend, who posed the question to me why wasn't i one of the ones climbing v12.

the last year for me hasn't been completely void of good climbing, and i've done at least a couple of problems that i can say i'm proud of, however, overall, sometimes i just feel like going out and having fun. lately i like mixing it up with a few routes here and there, or just getting out to enjoy the day with friends and dogs.

it's not that i don't want to climb hard, or am no longer trying, but i just don't always feel the need to try the hardest problems all of the time. certainly there was a time when these were my motivations, and there is nothing wrong with that thinking- it certainly moves the sport forward. But, the downside is that it 'feeds the ego' as my friend Justin says, and wear down on the pure joys of what i love about climbing.

at times the pressures of maintaining ones 'position' in the climbing community or keeping sponsors happy can chip away at the simple pleasures found in a day wandering through the boulders. others' expectations, and your own at times, for what you "should" be able to do eventually can lead to frustration and depression if you don't always 'perform.' these expectations also come from within, and can be paralyzing at times.

i write this post mainly for myself, to verbalize some of my thoughts about this lifestyle that i love so much, but also to remind other climbers (if any read this blog anymore) to just go out and enjoy yourself sometimes.

Upcoming movies

My dad just visited last weekend, and it went like this: Eat, drink, nap, repeat...We took a lot of video footage so we can make a tutorial on making homeade spaghetti and meat sauce, we just have to figure out how to edit it.

As for climbing, finally things are looking good weather wise- hit up Echo Canyon yesterday to climb routes with my friend Tarris. We froze, and my cold got really bad today. This weekend looks good for Joe's, and I am excited to climb in a tank top. I've trained really hard in the gym this winter, and I'd really like it to payoff outside now that the Spring is here.

Hopefully we'll have cool pics/vid to post soon!

Allright

The lack of blogging going on in this blog is ridiculous...and I am not a woman who is made to look RIDICULOUS...ok, bad Godfather reference there.

Anyways, geez, where the hell have Adam and Melissa been?! Well, in general, starting to regain life as we know it, now that our old house has sold and we have settled into the new one.

A big highlight was a quick trip to San Diego that I (Melissa) took to see my mom. Can't beat free gorgeous Marriott hotel rooms thanks to my dad's hotel points! Scroll down to see some picture highlights.

In a nutshell: Adam skiied a ton this year, Melissa pulled a ton of plastic (ie, gym climbed for all of you uninitiated)....

Recently, the snow has started to thaw....THANKS BE TO JESUS! And I've climbed in Joe's, Ibex, and most recently the ST. George area, marking my return (officially) to route climbing. We'll see how long it lasts.

A big part of our winter has been the Utah Women's Gymnastics 2008 season, as we are season pass holders. Our beloved Utes, are 11-1 this year, and are ranked 2nd in the country, although they have already defeated the #1 team, Georgia. Check them out at: http://utahutes.cstv.com/sports/w-gym/utah-w-gym-body.html

The Utes have a great shot at being the National Champs, so stay tuned to these amazing athletes, many of whom were International stars and Olympians prior to their Collegiate careers, and a couple of whom you may see in Beijing this summer!

Anyhoo, no complaints, things are greening up, and we're psyched for Spring climbing season. Expect to hear more from us as we get back into the swing of life as we normally (or abnormally) know it- obsessed with CLIMBING!

Bronson, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah

After many, many tries over two seasons living here in SLC, yesterday I sent Bronson in LCC. This problem had only seen one other female ascent two years ago, and was ready for a long awaited female repeat. I sent it on my third day in a row climbing while my friend Cat from Montreal was visiting, and so it was extra special. She was filming the whole thing, and at the end, when I belly flopped and beached whale myself to the top, the camera is shaking up and down as she laughs hysterically at my ridiculous top out of the problem. I was so tired and so pumped, and my hands were numb from the cold. I have never tried so hard to stay on a boulder problem, and the whole time, part of me just wanted to let go...but the other part of me just held on, knowing that I would probably get hurt if I let go, and worse, if I didn't get hurt, I'd probably kill myself for giving up. I hope you enjoy this little funny film and you will be rewarded at the end with a good laugh!

Wolf's Head Video

Wind Rivers - Great Success!

"I just want to be off this thing" -Trent about 8 pitches into the East Ridge of Wolf's Head

I went to the Wind Rivers in WY this last weekend and had a hell of a good time. The trailhead is only 4 hours from my front door. I don't know why I've never been there before. It's like a remote Yosemite with routes for mere mortals everywhere. Trent and I took one day to hike into the Cirque of the Towers and then climbed the East Ridge of Wolf's Head (it's in the center of the photo). Super classic butt-puckering alpine ridge. Unlike anything I've ever climbed before because you're basically traversing on every pitch. That means you fell like you're on lead whether you're leading or following, usually with 1000 feet of air below. It's a grow-hair-on-your-chest kind of route. But it will also make that hair turn grey from sheer stress.